Following on from a rather tumultuous end to 2024 for Patek Philippe and hot on the tails of their first new collection in 25 years, the Cubitus, 2025’s novelty season is upon us as brands flock to Watches and Wonders to showcase their latest batch of new models, updates, and changes to a hopefully impressed public. While October last year didn’t exactly deliver that for Patek, this round of novelties might impress, so let’s jump into what Patek Philippe have cooked up this year as we examine the meat and bones of what they have decided to bring out this year.
Expanded Cubitus
New versions of the Patek Philippe Cubitus (Images: Patek Philippe)
Much has been said about the Cubitus since it was launched in October. I hinted at it earlier, but it didn’t go down all that well with most of the watch-collecting community. From its Nautilus-“inspired” case design, let’s say, to its Nautilus bracelet and dial, it wasn’t the home run Patek probably expected it to be from a community sentiment point of view. While the case, dial, and bracelet certainly didn’t earn too much favor from collectors, it was the 45mm case diameter that let most people down.
So, they will certainly be happy to see that Patek has debuted a 40mm Cubitus, the ref. 7128, that comes in at $65,000. Available in 18kt white gold with a blue dial like you might find on a Nautilus, and in 18kt rose gold with a chocolate brown dial, this new duo will surely earn some brownie points from collectors that couldn’t handle a 45mm diameter watch from Patek. It’s not exactly groundbreaking, but it’s a nice start in improving how the community feels about the collection, given that smaller variants were such glaring omissions when it first debuted.
New Trio for the Nautilus Collection
In addition to new Cubitus offerings, Patek have expanded their range of Ladies’ Nautiluses (or is it Nautili?) with two new 32mm 18kt white gold references: the ref. 7010/1G, offered on an 18kt white gold bracelet, and the ref. 7010G, offered on an azure blue fabric strap. Both feature diamond-set bezels and rich lacquered azure blue “wave” pattern dials. These stunning quartz-powered watches will certainly add another nice point of differentiation between the men’s and ladies’ Nautilus models.
Finally, the last novel Nautilus is the entirely diamond-set ref. 5811/1460G-001. Priced at almost €650,000 and set with diamonds across the entirety of its 41mm 18kt white gold case, bracelet, dial, and bezel, this timepiece includes almost 1,500 diamonds for a total of nearly 20 carats – quite a crazy exhibition of gem-setting excellence.
Classy Calatrava
Moving from one diamond-set watch to perhaps the exact opposite of it takes us to Patek’s latest addition to their Calatrava collection, the ref. 6196P-001. Made of platinum, this 38mm timepiece features a stunning salmon dial with anthracite white gold hour markers and hands that stand in stark contrast to the rest of the watch’s display. Featuring a clean aesthetic that stays away from the clous de Paris hobnail engraved bezel that the Calatrava has championed in recent years, this is a watch that goes back to the collection’s minimalist Bauhaus-inspired aesthetic, but whether it will resonate with collectors will be the true test. I, however, for what it’s worth, think it’s great, but the €48k price tag is a bit heavy.
Two More Twenty-4
Determined to offer their female collectors the same standard of watches as their male collectors, Patek have made some impressive strides in improving the horological merit of their ladies’ pieces. Proving that point perfectly are two new Twenty-4 references, the ref. 7340.
Both made of 18kt rose gold and standing 36mm in diameter, these two perpetual calendar models are only different in their dials, with the options being a silver with a linen-style “shantung” effect or a sunburst olive green. Powered by the ultra-thin cal. 240Q, these watches are a welcome addition to Patek’s women-focused line-up.
More Complications
Calatrava Pilot Travel Time ref. 5524G, Annual Calendar ref. 4946R-001 and Calatrava 8-Day ref. 5328G-001 (Images: Patek Philippe)
Stepping into the realm of truly high-end watchmaking, Patek have, of course, debuted a handful of models that form part of their Complications collection thanks to their wide and impressive variety of complications, as the name suggests. This year, Patek have launched three of those models, so let’s get into them.
Starting us off, we have the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time ref. 5524G. Offered in 18kt white gold, it features an ivory lacquered dial with blackened white gold applied numerals and the model’s typical list of useful complications in the collection’s typical 42mm case.
Next, we have the Annual Calendar getting an update with the ref. 4946R-001. Made of 18kt rose gold, this timepiece comes with a chestnut brown dial with the same “shantung” finish as the Twenty-4. A notably gender-neutral offering on account of its dial matching the Twenty-4 and its description reading that it is “a 38 mm diameter suited to all wrists,” this Annual Calendar is another piece of evidence that Patek are beginning to see the value in producing watches for their female clients.
Finally, we have the last Complications model, the Calatrava 8-Day ref. 5328G-001, the big and best of the whole collection. Offering a new movement with instantaneous day/date displays and eight-day power reserve through its new manual-wind cal. 505 8J PS IRM CI J, the ref. 5328G-001 harmoniously combines a classic 18kt white gold construction with a number of technical innovations and optimizations that showcase Patek’s truly impressive command of watchmaking. Fitted with a textured blue dial and a hobnail-textured midcase, the ref. 5328G is as finely made on the outside as it is the inside.
Four Grand Complications
Quadruple Complication ref. 5308G, Perpetual Calendar ref. 6159G-001, Split-seconds Chronograph ref. 5370R (Images: Patek Philippe)
Finishing off our breakdown of Patek’s novelties is their three offerings that fit within their Grand Complications collection through their incredibly impressive array of watchmaking wonders.
Getting things started is the new 42mm Quadruple Complication ref. 5308G with minute-repeater, split-seconds chronograph, and instantaneous perpetual calendar. Made of 18kt white gold, this watch features a stunning blue dial that uses dark blue accents to highlight its variety of complication indicators. A thoroughly pleasing display on account of its color coordination, this watch is arguably the best of Patek’s 2025 novelties, at least in my view—but for €1.3m, it would want to be impressive.
Next, we have the Perpetual Calendar ref. 6159G-001 in 18kt white gold. Sized at 39.5mm in diameter and using the Calatrava’s clous de Paris decorated bezel, this timepiece combines Patek’s luxurious aesthetic with modernity through its unique grey sapphire crystal dial that reveals the dial side of its automatic cal. 26330 S QR movement. An unusual look for a Perpetual Calendar model, hopefully this is a sign of things to come for Patek where they branch out from the conservatism that has come to define their brand aesthetic.
Last but not least, we have the Split-seconds Chronograph ref. 5370R. Made of 18kt rose gold and measuring 41mm in diameter, this timepiece’s most impressive detail is its stunning Grand Feu brown and beige enamel dial. While its manual-wind cal. CHR 29535 PS is no slouch, its two-tone dial serves as the perfect accompaniment for its construction, perhaps marking a move from Patek to appeal to the most style-focused amongst their clients. Priced at almost €300,000, they would also want deep pockets.
Final Thoughts
Offering a little bit of everything for their collectors, Patek Philippe have taken their momentum from 2024 and expanded upon it with a bevy of impressive watches that build upon their growing variety of ladies’ watches and the work they put into the Cubitus collection. However, as we might expect, the true stars of the show are the ultra-complicated leather-strapped watches, and for that I am thankful. If they had focused on the Nautilus or Aquanaut as they have in recent years, I would be a bit disappointed.
